A visit to Orchha transports one to a different plane of consciousness. What strikes a visitor the most is the serenity that envelops the ambience of this small township in Madhya Pradesh’s Bundelkhand region. 

Orchha literally means a hidden place. The magnificent palaces, forts and chhatris constructed on the orders of Bundela rulers simply beg¬gar description. The crucial aspect of this extraordinary tourist destina¬tion is that it is the sole place in India where Lord Rama is worshipped as a king. The townsfolk believe that it is He who rules the land and none else. All the sovereigns had been only in name. The beautiful Betwa flows on three sides of the town that has a population of about 10,000 and attracts both domestic as well as overseas vacationers in good numbers. 

The visitors to this historic town can’t help getting bowled over by its charm. When I interacted with some foreigners they averred that they came seeking peace from hec¬tic urban existences. The Ram Raja Temple, Jehangir Mahal and Raja Mahal are famous for exquisite wall paintings in addition to matchless architecture. Besides, the Sheesh Mahal, Rai Praveen Mahal, Rani Mahal and of course the cenotaphs are attractions. The chhatris are grand monuments overlooking the Betwa and dedicated to valiant Bundela potentates. The stories about gallantry, martial exploits and romance of the Bundela overlords and their exceptional penchant for building grand palaces and other structures form a major part of Bundeli folklore. 

Ram Raja Temple 

The greatest ‘magnet’ in Orchha is the Ram Raja Temple dedicated to Lord Ram, who is worshipped as a monarch here. There’s an interest¬ing tale, told for generations, about this shrine. Queen Ganeshi had a clash with her husband over their devotion. He was a devotee of Lord Krishna while she was a worshipper of Ram. The king demanded that the lady go to Ayodhya and return with her chosen deity in tow! She went and prayed to Him. Pleased, Lord Ram appeared before her and agreed to visit Orchha with a rider that He would reside at the place where she first puts him down. The temple being constructed to enshrine Him had not been com¬pleted by that time so the queen set the idol in the palace’s kitchen. The Lord, as per His condition, chose to stay on and not to move into the temple built for Him! Since then the palace has been converted into His shrine and is a fine example of Indo-Islamic architecture. 

It is the only temple dedicated to Ram where He is given a four-gun salute at the time of four aartis daily by police personnel. 

It also has the Hardaul Baithika or seat of Hardaul who has been deified in Bundelkhand. His chab¬utaras or platforms are found everywhere in the region. There is a practice of delivering wedding invitation at these platforms! 

Jehangir Mahal 

This marvellous palace came into being on the orders of Bir Singhdeo Bundela in the 17th century, in honour of Emperor Jehangir who was to visit Orchha. The building has been devel¬oped as a marriage destination. The five-storeyed palace comprises 236 rooms of which 100 are underground. It is a protected monument. The well-ventilated structure has a charming main entrance with intricate carving. The palace affords a panoramic view of eastern Orchha. The jali work is remarkably excellent – red and yellow sandstone were employed. It also has a vast courtyard with eight smaller ones. The central courtyard resembles the ones at Fatehpur Sikri and Amer Palace. 

Raja Mahal 

Its construction was commenced by Rudra Pratap Singh when he shifted the capital from Gadhkudar to Orch¬ha owing to water scarcity. The pal¬ace includes exclusive chambers for the queens, Diwan-i-Khas, Diwan-i- Aam and a dining hall. The royal bed¬room has a window through which the Chaturbhuj Temple can be seen. Wall paintings represent a blend of Bundeli and Kangra styles. Natural colours were used for depicting the incarnations of Lord Vishnu, Ram Leela and Krishna Leela. A son et lumiere is held every evening on the premises. 

Rai Praveen Mahal 

This well-maintained edifice was built by King Indramani for his lover Rai Praveen who was a gifted danseuse, singer and poetess. A garden Anand Udyan adjoins it. Emperor Jalal-ud-din Muhammad Akbar himself described her as a rare blend of beauty and talent. 

Sheesh Mahal 

It has since been converted into a heritage hotel with a couple of suits and six rooms. 

Chhatris 

The cenotaphs, in Panchratna Nagar style, are the samadhi sthals. These have four small domes on as many corners and a large one in the centre. Rafting facility in the river is avail¬able from March to October. 

Festivities 

The town witnesses festive activities almost round the year. However, the month of Sawan is very special. The Ram Vivah Panchami celebrations in November are a visual treat. The day begins with Rasari (wedding procession) with the Lord Himself as bridegroom! People participate with considerable enthusiasm, singing and dancing all the way. The pro¬cession moves around the town and culminates at the Janki Temple. The marriage is solemnised with Vedic rituals and the three-day celebra¬tions conclude with a bhandara. 

Ramnavami is also celebrated with pomp. Other events include Navratri and Keshav Jayanti to com¬memorate the celebrated Hindi poet Keshav. A fair is held every month. 

Orchha is merely 16 km from Jhansi; the nearest airports be¬ing Gwalior and Khajuraho. The Shatabdi Express is the most con¬venient train to reach Tikamgarh from where the remainder distance can be covered by road. The World Heritage Site Khajuraho, Gwalior, Chanderi, Shivpuri, Dhubela Mu¬seum and Orchha may be included in a single tour. v